So my summer in Kenya has finally come to a close. For those of you who have been reading my blog, I hope it was worth your time. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) I am hectically getting ready for my 48 hours of travel home, so I don't have the time or energy for an awe-inspiring closing post.
I will say this: This summer in Kenya has certainly tested me in ways I never expected. It will take a very long time for me to process all that I have experienced, so even if I wanted to sum up all of my feelings in this post, I would be leaving far too much out. I look forward to a long, unpredictable relationship with this continent. I can only hope every experience I have here will change me in as many ways this summer has.
I should mention that I will be studying abroad in Kampala, Uganda for the Spring 2010 semester, so the goodbye I bid this region tomorrow morning is by no means final.
By the way, the Kenyan coast stole my heart. It was a perfect vacation.
Photos of the Kenyan Coast.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Quick Trip to Nairobi and a Nice Sucess
Kisumu is boring. There is no avoiding that. After spending two months here, there is nothing new to do, nothing new to see, and no vibe to enjoy. Easy solution: leave. Salina, Ayaka and I did just that.
We spent a quick weekend in Kenya's capital city of Nairobi. I was prepared for a busy, congested, disaster of an urban center that grew up too quickly with no proper planning. Everyone I have spoken with has hated Nairobi, and I mean everyone. Fortunately, I was pleasantly surprised. I think it was the inner New Yorker in me who salivates at the notion of too many people, noise, traffic, and all things opposite of calm. Or maybe it is having two months of the same old Kisumu under my belt that made me crave something different. Whatever the reason, I kind of liked Nairobi. It is definitely not my favorite city, but it was doable. We hung out with some of Salina's friends, who showed us a good time. Granted, on our way to dinner one night we were arbitrarily stopped by some cops and had to bribe them to let us go. No wonder Kenya's police force is ranked the most corrupt in the region. Other than that, it was pleasant enough.
Pictures of Nairobi
Our first day back in Kisumu involved one of the few successes of our work with MCI. We had been planning a meeting among CHWs and clinic representatives. Previous (failed) meetings have taught us not to get our hopes up, but this time was different. Of those invited, almost everyone showed up. The dialogue was good. Some serious issues surfaced regarding the functioning of the health system in Manyatta. It looks like some progress will be made, finally. It felt good to have something finally go your way after about two months of nothing but frustration and discouragement, both of which usually come with priceless lessons for which I am grateful. So, as my time here in Kenya wanes, I can feel good that this one little meeting went well.
I will be traveling for the next couple of weeks. Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu. All on the coast. I will be alone for most of this (thank god - two months living and working witht the same people takes its toll on you), and look forward to some relaxation by the Indian Ocean. If all goes well, I should have some good pictures to post when I get back.
We spent a quick weekend in Kenya's capital city of Nairobi. I was prepared for a busy, congested, disaster of an urban center that grew up too quickly with no proper planning. Everyone I have spoken with has hated Nairobi, and I mean everyone. Fortunately, I was pleasantly surprised. I think it was the inner New Yorker in me who salivates at the notion of too many people, noise, traffic, and all things opposite of calm. Or maybe it is having two months of the same old Kisumu under my belt that made me crave something different. Whatever the reason, I kind of liked Nairobi. It is definitely not my favorite city, but it was doable. We hung out with some of Salina's friends, who showed us a good time. Granted, on our way to dinner one night we were arbitrarily stopped by some cops and had to bribe them to let us go. No wonder Kenya's police force is ranked the most corrupt in the region. Other than that, it was pleasant enough.
Pictures of Nairobi
Our first day back in Kisumu involved one of the few successes of our work with MCI. We had been planning a meeting among CHWs and clinic representatives. Previous (failed) meetings have taught us not to get our hopes up, but this time was different. Of those invited, almost everyone showed up. The dialogue was good. Some serious issues surfaced regarding the functioning of the health system in Manyatta. It looks like some progress will be made, finally. It felt good to have something finally go your way after about two months of nothing but frustration and discouragement, both of which usually come with priceless lessons for which I am grateful. So, as my time here in Kenya wanes, I can feel good that this one little meeting went well.
I will be traveling for the next couple of weeks. Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu. All on the coast. I will be alone for most of this (thank god - two months living and working witht the same people takes its toll on you), and look forward to some relaxation by the Indian Ocean. If all goes well, I should have some good pictures to post when I get back.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Hell's Gate
So work has been getting ever more frustrating, so we really needed some excitement. We got a healthy dose of that this weekend at Hell's Gate National Park. The name sounds ominous, maybe dangerous, but it was just fun. We rented crappy mountain bikes and spent the day surrounded by awesome cliffs and some awesome wildlife. Check out the pictures, they do a better job describing things than my words could.
Photos of Hell's Gate
Photos of Hell's Gate
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Please Vote
This is kind of random, but if you love me you will vote...
I am going to copy an email from Susan Blaustein, who is Co-Director of Millennium Cities Initiative (MCI), the organization that I am working for here in Kisumu. It explains everything that you need to know.
"Dear Friends of the Millennium Cities Initiative,
Paul Buchheit, a former Google executive, recently posted a blog seeking advice about where to donate his money. He has created a topic on Google Moderator, allowing people to submit ideas and vote.
We have recommended that Mr. Buchheit consider the MCI as a philanthropic investment - one that will help so many Africans achieve the Millennium Development Goals. Of course, we would greatly appreciate your support! If or when you have the time, please consider logging on to Google moderator (http://moderator.appspot.com/#16/e=90c6a) to vote. You can also log on to Friend Feed (http://friendfeed.com/collaborative-charity), another chat area Mr. Buchheit has set up to foster discussion of some of the ideas. To vote or comment, you will need to create an account if you do not already have one. It won't take long, we promise! Just follow the instructions and search for Millennium Cities Initiative.
Many thanks to you all, for your continued support and for all you do to make the MDGs a reality for the many talented and resourceful residents of the Millennium Cities. "
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do this.
I know these sorts of things seem like they never work, but they do! My co-president of the HIV/AIDS club I am involved with on campus got $10,000 donated to a charity she works with (teaching Chinese immigrants English in Chinatown) through a very similar thing. She just got all of her friends and family to vote for her and it worked.
Soooo... please take the 5 minutes needed to do as the copied email above describes. Trust me, the money is desperately needed and would do a world of good.
Thanks.
I am going to copy an email from Susan Blaustein, who is Co-Director of Millennium Cities Initiative (MCI), the organization that I am working for here in Kisumu. It explains everything that you need to know.
"Dear Friends of the Millennium Cities Initiative,
Paul Buchheit, a former Google executive, recently posted a blog seeking advice about where to donate his money. He has created a topic on Google Moderator, allowing people to submit ideas and vote.
We have recommended that Mr. Buchheit consider the MCI as a philanthropic investment - one that will help so many Africans achieve the Millennium Development Goals. Of course, we would greatly appreciate your support! If or when you have the time, please consider logging on to Google moderator (http://moderator.appspot.com/#16/e=90c6a) to vote. You can also log on to Friend Feed (http://friendfeed.com/collaborative-charity), another chat area Mr. Buchheit has set up to foster discussion of some of the ideas. To vote or comment, you will need to create an account if you do not already have one. It won't take long, we promise! Just follow the instructions and search for Millennium Cities Initiative.
Many thanks to you all, for your continued support and for all you do to make the MDGs a reality for the many talented and resourceful residents of the Millennium Cities. "
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do this.
I know these sorts of things seem like they never work, but they do! My co-president of the HIV/AIDS club I am involved with on campus got $10,000 donated to a charity she works with (teaching Chinese immigrants English in Chinatown) through a very similar thing. She just got all of her friends and family to vote for her and it worked.
Soooo... please take the 5 minutes needed to do as the copied email above describes. Trust me, the money is desperately needed and would do a world of good.
Thanks.
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Assortment of Things
So I realize that it has been a while since my last post. Various things have happened since my last update.
I’ll let the photos do most of the talking.
Random photos of Manyatta
Village
Salina and I went to one of the villages around Kisumu. This was our first time in a rural area and it was pretty much what I expected: slow. The purpose of the visit was to attend a fundraiser at the church of Ben, one of the two MCI staff. I wasn’t too keen on going to a fundraiser, let alone a church, but I wanted to see what was up. We went to Ben’s house and had a pre-fundraiser meal. Ben’s mother (one of three (simultaneous) wives of Ben’s father) kept brining out platter after platter full of good old Kenyan food: fried chicken, corn (a bit tougher than the corn in the states), ugali, tomatoes, rolls, and of course weak milky tea and tons of sugar. After our first meal, we went to the fundraiser. Very weird. People just kept bringing money up to the collection plate at the front. If someone donated a large sum, the amount would be announced, which would instigate loud singing and others coming out give to top their generous peers. After 3 hours of this, and another meal, we left the church and went to Beldina’s childhood home.
Photos of the village/church fundraiser
Fish
Let me just say that tilapia from Lake Victoria may have questionable toxic levels, but it tastes good.
Hospital
We have been touring different health facilities in the area in order to set up a meeting between the facilities and the CHWs in the slum. We finally got into the Provincial General Hospital, which is the largest and most equipped in the area. It serves 8 million people and is the last stop before someone has to be referred to Nairobi. We couldn’t take pictures in the wards for obvious reasons, but let me just say that you are glad you didn’t see what I saw. To put it bluntly, I was walking around watching people die. I’ll leave it at that.
Photos of fish and hospital (weird pairing, I know)
Uganda
On a lighter note, Salina, Ayaka, George (a new friend who goes to Columbia, but works in the rural areas around Kisumu) and I took a short vacation into neighboring Uganda. This trip was particularly important for me because I just submitted my application to study abroad in the capital city of Kampala for the Spring 2010 semester. Luckily, I loved what I saw. We took bus, which took 7 hours and almost left us at the border. We were the only foreigners on the bus, so we obviously took longer at the immigration office. We had to chase down the bus, making asses of ourselves in the process.
We spent 2 nights in Kampala followed by 2 nights on the Nile near its source at the town of Jinja. Kampala is a great city. East African cities get a bad rep for violence, congestion, pollution and general chaos – Kampala is the exception. Although the Lord’s Resistance Army is still wreaking havoc in the north of the country, this southern capital is very pleasant. We just walked around town, just like I do in NYC, and it was great. The Nile was also wonderful. I basically lounged on its shores for two days. The other three went white water rafting for one of those days, but it was too expensive for me, so I stayed back and did absolutely nothing, which was perfect. So, cross your fingers for me getting into the study abroad program because I loved Uganda and cannot wait to return.
Photos of Uganda Summer 2009
I’ll let the photos do most of the talking.
Random photos of Manyatta
Village
Salina and I went to one of the villages around Kisumu. This was our first time in a rural area and it was pretty much what I expected: slow. The purpose of the visit was to attend a fundraiser at the church of Ben, one of the two MCI staff. I wasn’t too keen on going to a fundraiser, let alone a church, but I wanted to see what was up. We went to Ben’s house and had a pre-fundraiser meal. Ben’s mother (one of three (simultaneous) wives of Ben’s father) kept brining out platter after platter full of good old Kenyan food: fried chicken, corn (a bit tougher than the corn in the states), ugali, tomatoes, rolls, and of course weak milky tea and tons of sugar. After our first meal, we went to the fundraiser. Very weird. People just kept bringing money up to the collection plate at the front. If someone donated a large sum, the amount would be announced, which would instigate loud singing and others coming out give to top their generous peers. After 3 hours of this, and another meal, we left the church and went to Beldina’s childhood home.
Photos of the village/church fundraiser
Fish
Let me just say that tilapia from Lake Victoria may have questionable toxic levels, but it tastes good.
Hospital
We have been touring different health facilities in the area in order to set up a meeting between the facilities and the CHWs in the slum. We finally got into the Provincial General Hospital, which is the largest and most equipped in the area. It serves 8 million people and is the last stop before someone has to be referred to Nairobi. We couldn’t take pictures in the wards for obvious reasons, but let me just say that you are glad you didn’t see what I saw. To put it bluntly, I was walking around watching people die. I’ll leave it at that.
Photos of fish and hospital (weird pairing, I know)
Uganda
On a lighter note, Salina, Ayaka, George (a new friend who goes to Columbia, but works in the rural areas around Kisumu) and I took a short vacation into neighboring Uganda. This trip was particularly important for me because I just submitted my application to study abroad in the capital city of Kampala for the Spring 2010 semester. Luckily, I loved what I saw. We took bus, which took 7 hours and almost left us at the border. We were the only foreigners on the bus, so we obviously took longer at the immigration office. We had to chase down the bus, making asses of ourselves in the process.
We spent 2 nights in Kampala followed by 2 nights on the Nile near its source at the town of Jinja. Kampala is a great city. East African cities get a bad rep for violence, congestion, pollution and general chaos – Kampala is the exception. Although the Lord’s Resistance Army is still wreaking havoc in the north of the country, this southern capital is very pleasant. We just walked around town, just like I do in NYC, and it was great. The Nile was also wonderful. I basically lounged on its shores for two days. The other three went white water rafting for one of those days, but it was too expensive for me, so I stayed back and did absolutely nothing, which was perfect. So, cross your fingers for me getting into the study abroad program because I loved Uganda and cannot wait to return.
Photos of Uganda Summer 2009
Thursday, July 2, 2009
This and That
So the past week or so has been filled with a bunch of random events/activities. I’ll give a "quick" overview.
Last Friday, Salina and I traveled to Mfangano Island, which is a small island in Lake Victoria. Getting there required a 2-hour matatu/bus ride to Luanda Kotieno, then a 1-hour ferry ride to Mbita, where we stayed the night. The next morning we caught a 2-hour boat ride (small, uncomfortable fishing boat) from Mbita to Mfangano. Mfangano's terrain reminded me a lot of the Mediterranean coast, but in the middle of Africa. There is no electricity, and only a few motorbikes, which took us around. By no means is this mode of transportation safe, but it has to be one of the most exhilarating. You just sit on the back of a motorbike and hold on. We walked around the island, hoping to reach some rock paintings that Bantu pygmies made a long time ago. Unfortunately, we were informed that the rock paintings were just too far from where we were to see them and have enough time to catch the boat back. Fortunately, the person who told us this invited us back to stay with him and his family on the other side of the island, which is much closer to the rock paintings. We exchanged numbers, and we hope to be able to get back. Another stroke of bad luck left me with a dead camera battery, so the pictures are limited. Let’s all cross our fingers that we make it back to the island, so I can rectify the mistake.
The trip back to Kisumu later that day was the same as the way there, except in reverse order and about twice as long. Traveling into Kisumu on a Saturday night is not something I want to repeat. This is due to the splendid Kibuye Market, which is in full swing every Sunday in Kisumu. People from all over the area flood into Kisumu; most of them decide to come Saturday night. So our bus/matatu ride back into the city involved many prolonged stops, during which endless amounts of market bound goods were slung atop the vehicle. Chickens, mangoes, baskets, fish, clothes, corn, fish, fish, fish, and other sacks full of indiscernible goods (I suspect fish). It was a crowded ride, and long, but memorable. Every time we passed a police checkpoint, those standing in the isle had to squat so as to not be seen by the policemen.
Photos of my trip to Mfangano Island
This all leads us to our Sunday, which was spent at the Kibuye Market. We got the cook at the guesthouse we are staying at to show us around. His name is Immanuel, and he is very nice.
After the market, we went into Manyatta to walk around. Our friend Calvin showed us around his neighborhood, Kondele Unit. This was the first of our six tours through the six units of the Manyatta A slum. Hopefully the other five will happen as planned, and pictures will go up. (Although all the units tends to look very similar as they are within a 2 sq km area).
This past Tuesday, we attended a meeting of the Manyatta A Neighborhood Association (NA). All of the 42 NGOs were invited. It was a chance to get some dialogue going between the community members and those in the slum attempting to help them. Of the 43 NGOs, only 3 showed up. Very frustrating. But, we got over it. Dust yourself off and such. After the meeting, they had me plant a tree outside the community center in memory of our time here. I had to name it. Naturally, I named it Obama. (I think I will devote a post in the near future to Obama and his influence here. Trust me, it goes beyond the tree). After the tree planting, we had a feast.
Photos of Kibuye and Manyatta
Last Friday, Salina and I traveled to Mfangano Island, which is a small island in Lake Victoria. Getting there required a 2-hour matatu/bus ride to Luanda Kotieno, then a 1-hour ferry ride to Mbita, where we stayed the night. The next morning we caught a 2-hour boat ride (small, uncomfortable fishing boat) from Mbita to Mfangano. Mfangano's terrain reminded me a lot of the Mediterranean coast, but in the middle of Africa. There is no electricity, and only a few motorbikes, which took us around. By no means is this mode of transportation safe, but it has to be one of the most exhilarating. You just sit on the back of a motorbike and hold on. We walked around the island, hoping to reach some rock paintings that Bantu pygmies made a long time ago. Unfortunately, we were informed that the rock paintings were just too far from where we were to see them and have enough time to catch the boat back. Fortunately, the person who told us this invited us back to stay with him and his family on the other side of the island, which is much closer to the rock paintings. We exchanged numbers, and we hope to be able to get back. Another stroke of bad luck left me with a dead camera battery, so the pictures are limited. Let’s all cross our fingers that we make it back to the island, so I can rectify the mistake.
The trip back to Kisumu later that day was the same as the way there, except in reverse order and about twice as long. Traveling into Kisumu on a Saturday night is not something I want to repeat. This is due to the splendid Kibuye Market, which is in full swing every Sunday in Kisumu. People from all over the area flood into Kisumu; most of them decide to come Saturday night. So our bus/matatu ride back into the city involved many prolonged stops, during which endless amounts of market bound goods were slung atop the vehicle. Chickens, mangoes, baskets, fish, clothes, corn, fish, fish, fish, and other sacks full of indiscernible goods (I suspect fish). It was a crowded ride, and long, but memorable. Every time we passed a police checkpoint, those standing in the isle had to squat so as to not be seen by the policemen.
Photos of my trip to Mfangano Island
This all leads us to our Sunday, which was spent at the Kibuye Market. We got the cook at the guesthouse we are staying at to show us around. His name is Immanuel, and he is very nice.
After the market, we went into Manyatta to walk around. Our friend Calvin showed us around his neighborhood, Kondele Unit. This was the first of our six tours through the six units of the Manyatta A slum. Hopefully the other five will happen as planned, and pictures will go up. (Although all the units tends to look very similar as they are within a 2 sq km area).
This past Tuesday, we attended a meeting of the Manyatta A Neighborhood Association (NA). All of the 42 NGOs were invited. It was a chance to get some dialogue going between the community members and those in the slum attempting to help them. Of the 43 NGOs, only 3 showed up. Very frustrating. But, we got over it. Dust yourself off and such. After the meeting, they had me plant a tree outside the community center in memory of our time here. I had to name it. Naturally, I named it Obama. (I think I will devote a post in the near future to Obama and his influence here. Trust me, it goes beyond the tree). After the tree planting, we had a feast.
Photos of Kibuye and Manyatta
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Hippos and Mega City
This past Saturday goes down as one of the weirdest days I’ve ever experienced. We wanted to explore the area around Kisumu and Lake Victoria, and we ended up seeing the wide spectrum that is the developing world.
I’ll keep things short this time – no history lesson.
Our day began with a cruise of Lake Victoria. Although it was no Royal Caribbean, we had a great time on the water. We saw some hippos. We saw some birds. We saw some boats. We saw some Lake Victoria. I’ve realized that our “vacations” will not be the usual safaris that most people travel to Kenya to experience. That is mainly because those are crazy expensive, but it is also because we are here long enough to enjoy the small things. No guidebook will highlight watching the fishermen sail home every afternoon on Lake Victoria, but we have the time and famished budget to stumble upon that sight. Well worth it. We also got to walk around a local fishing outpost, where all the fish is brought back and sold. Very simple life – worlds away from what I am used to in NYC, and even in downtown Kisumu. Along the way, we saw tons of people having their afternoon bath in the lake. Didn’t take any pictures, but it was refreshing to see people doing their thing.
After the cruise, we went to what is called Mega City. This is the perfect example of eerie globalization. Mega City is a warehouse/shopping mall. There is a huge Wal-Mart-esque store as well as other shops. Half of the spaces were vacant, and the ones that were full reminded me of Carolina East Mall in G-vegas (right before it was bulldozed). It was just a very strange strange place. You saw locals in traditional attire buying cases of Fanta, or flat-screened TVs. The weirdest part was upstairs where the ‘food court’ was. It was a large space full of rows and rows of empty tables with chairs. A few people were eating, but generally it was just creepy. [Ok, so there is also a theater here, which will be showing Harry Potter, so I can get my fix of western pop culture once that comes out, although I know it will be an experience laden with guilt and general discomfort. Luckily for HP, I am a die-hard fan, so I will endure it.] Overall, this place was bizarre. It’s also worth noting that there is a smoldering landfill directly behind Mega City, which adds to the creepiness of it all.
Photos of Hippos and Mega City
I’ll keep things short this time – no history lesson.
Our day began with a cruise of Lake Victoria. Although it was no Royal Caribbean, we had a great time on the water. We saw some hippos. We saw some birds. We saw some boats. We saw some Lake Victoria. I’ve realized that our “vacations” will not be the usual safaris that most people travel to Kenya to experience. That is mainly because those are crazy expensive, but it is also because we are here long enough to enjoy the small things. No guidebook will highlight watching the fishermen sail home every afternoon on Lake Victoria, but we have the time and famished budget to stumble upon that sight. Well worth it. We also got to walk around a local fishing outpost, where all the fish is brought back and sold. Very simple life – worlds away from what I am used to in NYC, and even in downtown Kisumu. Along the way, we saw tons of people having their afternoon bath in the lake. Didn’t take any pictures, but it was refreshing to see people doing their thing.
After the cruise, we went to what is called Mega City. This is the perfect example of eerie globalization. Mega City is a warehouse/shopping mall. There is a huge Wal-Mart-esque store as well as other shops. Half of the spaces were vacant, and the ones that were full reminded me of Carolina East Mall in G-vegas (right before it was bulldozed). It was just a very strange strange place. You saw locals in traditional attire buying cases of Fanta, or flat-screened TVs. The weirdest part was upstairs where the ‘food court’ was. It was a large space full of rows and rows of empty tables with chairs. A few people were eating, but generally it was just creepy. [Ok, so there is also a theater here, which will be showing Harry Potter, so I can get my fix of western pop culture once that comes out, although I know it will be an experience laden with guilt and general discomfort. Luckily for HP, I am a die-hard fan, so I will endure it.] Overall, this place was bizarre. It’s also worth noting that there is a smoldering landfill directly behind Mega City, which adds to the creepiness of it all.
Photos of Hippos and Mega City
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
